Introducing the Correction
Setting the level of correction
Now, the correction is added to our training. This shows the dog that the consequence for ignoring the beep is a static shock. The lessons of the first step are reinforced, that the dog must turn and retreat whenever they hear the warning beep.
Adding the correction will help solidify the boundary rules that were taught in Step One. Since the dog was already taught to turn and retreat when they hear the beep, adding the correction will further reinforce this association.
After the first correction, you can adjust the strength of the correction so that it is strong enough to capture the dog’s attention, but not so strong that it is overwhelming to the dog. It is important that you as the owner stay calm and confident, so that the dog will not feel nervous if you do.
Setting the Level of Correction
How to increase width of the signal
How to turn up collar correction level
For small or sensitive dogs, you should start with the correction level on the lowest setting. Medium-sized dogs can have a medium setting and large, strong-willed dog can be on a high setting.
The correction level that is needed for each dog is different, because each dog is different. You are basically making an educated guess until the dog has received his first correction and you see his reaction. If you are uncertain about which correction level to use, guess high for strong-willed dogs and guess low for mild-mannered dogs.
Some people choose to set the correction level very low, because they fear about hurting the dog. However, this is not a good approach. If the correction is set too low, the dog will think that it is no big deal, and potentially wander out into the street.
Other people attempt to “scare the dog” with the correction and turn it up too high for them. This isn’t good because the dog may feel overwhelmed and won’t be receptive to learning. Instead you want to choose a correction level that is just strong enough to capture the dog’s attention and focus it on the dog fence.
Don’t Forget Playtime
How to increase width of the signal
Remember to play with your dog in the safe zone, before and after each training session. Playing a little bit before and after each training session keeps the dog open to taking part in training.
Training Your Dog With Correction
Just like in Step One, you are going to take the dog out on a long leash. Just like before, you are not going to lure the dog over the boundary, just let them wander over to the boundary on their own. After they cross the line and receive the correction, you may notice that they may flinch. This is when you pull the dog back into the safe zone, saying “no” with a firm voice. Praise them and give them a treat when they retreat into the safe zone.
Be sure to not baby your dog when he receives the correction. It is just a static shock, which feels similar to running across the carpet in your socks and then touching a doorknob. It is surprising, but not painful. Keep in mind that you are the dog’s leader. If you panic then he will too and he won’t learn. Act like it wasn’t a big deal and it won’t be a big deal to them.
What if your dog doesn’t cross the boundary? If he doesn’t, be sure to reward him with a treat. Pay attention to his body language. You may notice the dog heading toward the boundary, but stop short of the flags. You may also see the dog turn his back to the flags. Either one of these things warrants a treat, some praise, or a quick game of fetch.
This activity should be repeated 3 times a day for another week. Be sure that your dog only gets shocked once per session. Any more than this and the dog may find training an unpleasant experience.
When the dog is consistently demonstrating that they are not going to cross the fence, it is time for the next step. In step 3, we test the dog’s compliance by providing a temptation for them to cross the fence, to see if the dog will still resist crossing the fence.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. After being corrected, my dog became extremely afraid and ran back to the house. Now he won’t go anywhere near the flags. What do I do now?
A. Some dogs are more timid than others, and become overly sensitive to the correction. For dogs like this, the idea is to first decrease the correction level, and then increase the amount of reward for playing inside of the safety zone. If your dog becomes afraid, devote more of your training time to playing and rewarding in the safe zone. Giving your dog treats within the safety zone is likely to make a big difference, promoting a more positive association with the yard.
In addition to this, if your dog had an overly fearful reaction, make sure that you are not inadvertently babying the dog, therefore contributing to their fear. This can happen if you give the dog too much love and attention after they receive the correction.
Q. My dog learned to not cross the boundary, but now he stays very far away from it. How can I help my dog be more comfortable of the entire yard?
A. After getting the correction, most dogs stay 10 feet back from the flags. This reaction is a normal part of the training process. It is normal in the beginning for the dog to be very cautious. As time passes, they will become more experimental and will inch closer to the boundary again. To get your dog to go closer to the boundary, you can help by leading them on the leash into the safe zone, and begin playing with them there. With that being said, you don’t have to do this. Naturally, as time goes on, the dog will get closer and closer to the flags as they become familiar.
Q. My dog is completely ignoring the correction. Should the correction level be turned up?
A. During the training, if the dog is not reacting at all to the correction, the most common reason is that the collar is not fitted properly. Even when the collar is at the lowest setting, most dogs will at least show some sort of a reaction such as turning their head or scratching at the collar. If there is no reaction, it could be because the probes on the collar are not making good contact with the skin, and the dog simply doesn’t feel the correction.
Make sure that the dog’s hair is moved out of the way, and make sure that you can only insert 1 finger between the prongs and your dog’s neck. It may be a good idea to thin out the hair of a long haired dog, in the area where the contact points are touching the dog’s neck.
If you are certain that the collar is properly fitted, wait and see the dog’s reaction to the shock before increasing the level of correction. It is very rare for the dog to show no reaction whatsoever, if the collar is fitted properly.
Q. My dog shows a reaction when corrected, but doesn’t seem to be particularly bothered by it. Is it time to turn up the strength of the correction?
A. If the dog’s reaction is very mild, such as not moving with any urgency or pausing to scratch at the collar, it is time to increase the correction level to increase the dog’s attention.